Ireland Pilgrimage

In May 2011 a group of 13 RWS teachers and parents journeyed from Dublin to Westport taking in some of the mysteries of the Irish landscape by following part of the Stellar (star) path along the Boyne valley. This was the third year that I had joined a group from school on a pilgrimage, Chartres and Iona being the previous destinations.

We had been introduced to special features of the Boyne valley in a series of lectures by the master storyteller Guus Antonie, who accompanied us. Combined with the organisational skills of our leader, the intrepid Alexa Crook, the journey resulted in another once-in- a-lifetime experience. Music teacher, Sandie provided a much appreciated song repertoire leading to part-singing on the beach, on our walks and in the guesthouse after breakfast at the request of the staff!

At Bristol airport our first challenge was how to get across the water without a passport, bearing in mind that Ireland is a foreign country. Thanks to Aer Lingus who accepted a driving license as ID from one person, all 13 of us managed to get to Dublin at around the same time even using different airlines. After picking up two hire vehicles we made our way to Tara, a place where the King of Tara had once been the high king of all Kings of Ireland. It was here at the Stone of Destiny that the kings were crowned.

On Tara Hill with the Stone of Destiny

Afterwards we made our way to the World Heritage Sites, Newgrange and Knowth dating from 3000 BC. With only a small-scale map and with one vehicle lacking sat nav, we only just arrived in time for the very last tour of the day.

The passage tombs emphasise the contrast between complete darkness and the pencil of direct sunlight when it shines through the characteristic roof-box of a passage chamber. The effect was simulated for us but the genuine experience on the shortest day of the year is a privilege which is decided by ballot with many thousands of people taking part.

After spending the night at the Slane hostel we set out the next morning for Slane Hill, made famous by St. Patrick who refused to put out the fire which he had lit, angering the King of Tara and resulting in a war between them. The hostel did not supply breakfast but with our provisions from Slane and the appetite from the walk up the hill we found find a perfect location amongst the cloistered abbey ruins.

Our next destination was Kells, the place where St. Columba finished writing the Book of Kells and where we found some exquisite ancient carvings in the churchyard of St. Columba’s Church.

Then we set off for the Megalithic Cairns, dotted around Slieve na Caillaigh, meaning the Hill of the Witch, at Loughcrew. In one of these passage tombs, which were built around 3200 BC, we found beautiful rock art drawings representing solar symbols.

“Ringwood witches” on the Witches’ Seat – Loughcrew

Backstone in Cairn T, Loughcrew

Arriving in Westport late afternoon we made our way to the very comfortable guesthouse, Boffin Lodge. It had a lounge to sing in, accommodation perfectly matched to meet the needs of the group, and we could breakfast like a kings!

Westport’s Croagh Patrick, at 764m is the third highest mountain in County Mayo. In order to prepare for the climb, Bobo, the bothmer gym teacher, gave us an exercise routine to prepare us for walking in the hilly countryside, which was very different from the relatively flat New Forest. We found the climb to be quite a challenge with steep chalky gradients and stifling heat. It was nevertheless one of the highlights – on reaching the top on a fine day you are rewarded with a view of Clew Bay, traditionally said to contain an island for each day of the year.

Climbing Croagh Patrick

View from Croagh Patrick

The following day we made for Achill Island, a beautiful, tranquil island joined by bridge to the west coast of Mayo. The island has been the retreat and source of inspiration for artists and writers including Paul Henry and Graham Greene. We spent a relaxing afternoon on the beach after exploring St. Finian’s well and walking the nearby labyrinth.

Bothmer gym on a beach of Achill Island

We encountered much warmth and vitality in the Irish people during our stay and this was epitomised in our two nights spent at Matt Molloy’s (of the Chieftains) pub in Westport. The talents of live Irish folk musicians have created a magnetic atmosphere.

After the last morning shopping in Westport, it was back to Dublin where we headed for the Trinity College to take a glimpse of the Book of Kells, the centrepiece on display in the library which – written around 800 AD – contains a richly decorated copy of the four gospels in Latin.

The pilgrimage of 2011 had been to a country that I had visited once before on a family holiday in 1999. It was reassuring to find that the Irish people continued to be wonderful conversationalists with their lyrical lilt and quirky humour. There is much to be found in this country that is deeply ingrained including music-making, the focus on community values, the art of conversation, and of course, those runes and carvings of the ancient Celts. All these have left me with really special memories.

These boots are made for walking!

To be continued …….

Our next pilgrimage/study trip is scheduled for the first week of our October half term break. The destination will be Assisi in Italy and the theme is “Walking in the footsteps of Saint Francis”. If you are interested in joining, please contact Guus Antonie.

Assisi, Italyi

by Julie Wait, Class 4 parent